The Myth of Whisky’s Ancient Celtic Roots
Whisky has been intertwined with Scotland’s heritage for centuries, possibly brought by Christian missionary monks. However, Highland farmers might have independently discovered distillation using their surplus barley. The enchanting tale that whisky is an ancient Celtic drink is supported by the term ‘whisky’ stemming from the Gaelic uisce beatha, meaning ‘water of life’. Despite this appealing story, spirits, including whisky, are relatively young in the timeline of alcoholic beverages.
Distillation techniques were refined during the Islamic Golden Age (8th to 13th centuries) and later preserved and spread by medieval monasteries across Europe. The term ‘whisky’ reflects this monastic legacy. The phrase ‘water of life’ was commonly used for distilled spirits in the Christian world, known as aqua vitae in Latin. This term lives on in various forms across Europe, such as eau de vie in France and akvavit in Scandinavia. Thus, modern whisky’s precursor likely emerged in Irish monasteries during the late Middle Ages.
Early References and Distilleries
The earliest historical mention of whisky is in the Scottish Exchequer Rolls of 1494, noting “eight bolls of malt to Friar John Cor wherewith to make aquavitae” (about 203 kilograms of malt). King James IV’s records from 1506 also indicate purchases of aquavitae, likely for drinking.
The Ferintosh distillery, mentioned in the Acts of the Scottish Parliament in 1690, and a reference from 1614 to distilling in a private house in Banffshire, further illustrate whisky’s early history in Scotland. By 1618, the term ‘uiskie’ appears in funeral accounts, and by 1622, local whisky is noted in a letter from Sir Duncan Campbell.
The Tradition of Illicit Stills
Despite its relatively recent origins, whisky has a storied history of illicit distillation. Historically, ‘Parliament whisky’ was legally distilled under Crown license, while ‘poteen’ was illicitly produced. While the legal Irish whisky industry faced numerous challenges, poteen distilling thrived. By 1779, County Donegal alone had about 800 illegal stills, despite only 20 licensed distilleries in all of Ireland.
In the 17th century, distilling taxes in Scotland and England fostered a vibrant illicit industry, especially in the Highlands. Tales of cunning illicit distillers outsmarting excise men are integral to whisky folklore. Gavin Smith’s The Secret Stillrecounts colorful characters and improbable escapes, such as ‘Sarah of the Bog,’ who disguised herself as a witch to deter nosy neighbors, and Magnus Eunson, an Orkney smuggler who hid his stash in pulpits and under coffins.
Illicit distilling often required hidden stills, from remote sea caves to intricate setups. One account from 1824 describes a hidden still in a cavern beneath a trap door, supplied by an underground stream, with its smoke diverted through a distant cottage chimney.
The Commercialisation of Whisky
Whisky demand soared in the mid-18th century, driven not by the scenic Highlands but by industrial Glasgow. Prof. Tom Devine suggests that northern landowners encouraged illicit distilling to increase estate profitability, while urbanisation in cities like Glasgow, where whisky provided a quicker ‘hit’ than beer, significantly fueled demand.
In the 1820s, Aeneas Coffey patented a new kind of still, the ‘column’ or ‘continuous’ still, producing whisky higher in alcohol and less flavorful than pot-distilled whisky but in larger quantities and at lower costs. While major Irish distilleries rejected this innovation, Scottish distilleries embraced it, leading to the rise of blended Scotch, which eventually overshadowed its Irish counterpart.
Contaminated Whisky and Legal Reforms
In the 19th century, urban whisky was often adulterated. Edward Burns’s Bad Whisky details how an 1872 investigation found that most whisky samples from Glasgow pubs were contaminated with harmful substances like turpentine and sulfuric acid. This led to health risks and antisocial behavior attributed to poorly distilled whisky.
A Select Committee inquiry in 1890 and subsequent Royal Commission led to legislation prohibiting the sale of whisky aged less than three years, transforming whisky into a high-quality spirit recognised worldwide.
Modern Whisky
Today, the whisky industry has transformed significantly. In Ireland, only four distilleries remain from the hundreds once licensed, though boutique distilleries are emerging. In the United States, micro-distilleries are joining established bourbon producers, and there’s a resurgence in rye whisky. New distilleries have opened globally, from Japan to Brazil.
Scotch whisky has become a symbol of refinement, even surpassing champagne in status. In 2011, Scotch whisky exports totaled £4.23 billion, marking a 62% increase over four years. The Scotch Whisky Association claims the industry contributes £125 per second to the UK economy.
From its origins in monastic experimentation to its modern-day status as a global luxury, whisky’s journey is rich and varied. While the days of illicit stills are mostly behind us, the spirit’s legacy and place in history remain cherished by whisky lovers worldwide.
